Mandawa: Open Art Gallery of Rajasthan
While making a plan
for Rajasthan Tour I started looking for different attractive tourist spots
which will show the heritage, culture and theme of Rajasthan. One such spot
among many was Mandawa. It is a small town around 190 km from Jaipur in
Shekhawati region of Rajasthan and is known for its Havelis (Mansion) that
have lavishly painted walls & ceilings. Mandawa is often referred as “Open Art Gallery of Rajasthan”.
It has been a favourite shooting place of Bollywood mostly
for songs picturization. Shooting of movies like Love Aaj Kal, Paheli, Jab We Met, Manorama-6 Feet Under, Kachhe Dhaage,
Bajrangi Bhaijaan, PK, Shudh Desi Romance, Sooper Se Ooper, Dolly Ki Doli, Zed
Plus, Biyabaan, Mirziya, Ae Dil-e-Mushkil & Half Girlfriend was done
here. A large portion of Bhajrangi
Bhaijaan movie showing Pakistan town where Salaman
Khan along with Nawazuddin & Munni running away from Police was shot
in this town.
After finishing all
tourist spots of Jaipur, we started for Bikaner on National Highway 11. Our
plan was to have a brief stopover in Mandawa & then proceed for Bikaner. Roads
in Rajasthan are usually very good, so our ride was smooth. View on either side
of the road was full of some strange looking trees standing tall without leaves
on open fields used for irrigation. It looked liked that the leaves were chopped
off, may be it had to do with water. Our driver suggested that we should go to
Mandawa through Fatehpur which is midway between Jaipur & Bikaner in Sikar
District. Fatehpur is famous for its Havelis with frecos, bawdis which is
typical characteristic of Shekhawati region. Due to time limitatation we did
not stop at Fatehpur & directly went to Mandawa. Road between Fatehpur
& Mandawa is little bumpy at few places. It took us around 4 hrs to reach
Mandawa. We headed directly towards Mandawa fort. We had to ask local people
for directions & among them some suggested that they can be our guide at
nominal charges to show us Mandawa.
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| Google Map Of Journey Route To Mandawa & Bikaner |
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| View of Road Side on NH11 |
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| Strange Trees On Our Way to Mandawa |
Mandawa Fort:
Fort is
situated in the middle of the town & has now been converted into Heritage Hotel
& is named as Hotel Castle Mandawa. It was founded by Thakur Nawal Singh,
son of Shardul Singh in 18th century. It has now been divided into
two half between two brothers. One half of the Fort has been renovated &
converted to heritage hotel while other half is in poor condition. Hotel offers
guided tour of fort on chargeable basis. Lots of movie songs have been shot
here and people go for destination, theme based royal weddings.
We reached the Fort at around 2:00 pm & were
greeted by a heard of pigeons enjoying at the parking site in front of the
Fort. The first look of the fort itself gives the feeling of medieval times
with its turrets.
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| First View Of Mandawa Fort |
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| Entrance Gate Of Mandawa Fort |
Diwankhana:
The guard at the entrance of the Fort took us inside where we
had to buy tickets for our guided tour with inclusion of tea or coffee at the
end of the tour (Ticket:Rs.250 /adult). Fort is approached through two gateways
mounted with canons. The first or outer courtyard leads to deep verandah beyond which is
drawing room. We started with Diwankhana (Durbar Hall), basically
a drawing room. It was decorated with family portraits & looked rich with various colourful inscriptions
& antiques inside the room. Frescoes & paintings all over the wall
& ceiling were adding to the beauty of the room along with the hanging royal
chandeliers. Reflection of the sneaking sun rays through the curtains was
giving twinkling look to the room. On top portion there were Jharokhas.
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| Diwankhana of Mandawa Fort |
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| Jharokhas, Chandelier & Portraits of Royal Family |
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| Antique Canon In Front Of Diwankhana |
Then we moved to the Internal Courtyard a
beautiful green garden, simple quiet place that gives temptation to sit on the
grass. Hum Jo Chalne Lage Song from Jab We Met movie was shot in and around of Castle Mandawa. In one of the scene Shahid Kapoor rides on the bicycle with Kareena Kapoor sitting in front, it was
shot in internal courtyard. Cutie Pie Song from Ae Dil Hai
Mushkil was also shot here. Adjacent to internal courtyard is a beautiful Swimming
pool with Jacuzzi & Bar.
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| Beautiful Frescoes on Entrance Walls |
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| View Of Internal Courtyard From Left End |
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| One Scene Of Hum Jo Chalne Lage Song from Jab We Met Movie (2007) |
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| View Of Internal Courtyard From Right End |
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| Rooms on Right Corner Of Garden in Fort Mandawa |
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| Bar In The Garden By The Sides Of Pool |
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| Pigeons Enjoying In The Pool |
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| Open Air Hall For Wedding and Other Functions |
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| Bar Used For Functions, Gala Dinner |
Jai Niwas:
After courtyard we went to
see the rooms from outside. Exterior
of the rooms were filled with the frescoes of stories from Ramayan, Lord Krishna
along with cows, Lord Vishnu, Lord Hanuman, Lord Ganesha. We also saw the courtyard
where all the functions were held like weeding, conference, gala dinner, music
program, etc. After seeing rooms, we went to see Jai Niwas, Castle’s
dining room. Like all other places of the castle this dining hall too has
frescoes all over the walls, ceilings & houses antiques like transistors,
small cans, furnitures, etc. After dining hall we moved towards terrace through
the winding stairways & narrow halls to get a beautiful view of the Mandawa
city.
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| Guide Explaining About The Outpost With Beautiful Frescoes |
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| Staff Rooms Filled With Frescoes Depicting Ramayan |
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| Vanarsena Building Ram Setu |
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| Hanuman Flying To Lanka |
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| Antique Lamp On The Wall |
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| Place For Diyas Or Lamps Inside The Wall |
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Antique Air Cooler
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| Internal Hall For Small Functions |
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| Jai Niwas - A Dinning Hall |
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| Antique Small Tin Cans |
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| Antique Transistor |
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| Lighting Inside Jai Niwas |
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| View Of Unrestored Portion Of Fort From Terrace Of Renovated Half |
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| View Of Mandawa Town From Fort Mandawa |
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| Terrace Of Mandawa Fort |
Sileh Khana:
After getting mesmerized by the medieval look of the fort it was time to
move to the last place and end the tour of castle Mandawa i.e. Sileh
Khana a coffee shop & bar that allows guests to order from an a-la-carte menu and enjoy pre-dinner drinks in air-conditioned comfort, or on the
patio under the desert sky. We had a good cup of coffee on the patio &
moved out of Fort to explore the beautiful havelis of Mandawa.
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| Posing At Sileh Khana |
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| View Of Diwankhana From Sileh Khana |
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| Restored Murals At The Entrance |
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| Sileh Khana A Coffee Shop and Bar |
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| Unrestored Half Of The Fort And Outer Courtyard |
Havelis Of Mandawa:
After
having enjoyed the uniqueness of castle Mandawa, it was time to explore various
havelis of Mandawa town. Town was full of traders in 18th century
& they built all the havelis most of which were deserted in 19th
century. Havelis in this part of the world denoted the social and financial
status of the Marwari merchants. We started walking through the small
lanes of town, having a random look of various havelis & architecture.
Whole town is full of frescoes & murals depicting different life stories
from Ramayan, British age, Mughal, Rajputs and daily chores. We were not aware
of the routes & locations of different famous havelis. Luckily one local guy
came to our rescue & offered to become our guide. He took us to all the
famous havelis which are at walking distance from each other one by one.
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| Homeopathic Hospital In Mandawa Town |
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| At Some Corner Of Mandawa Town |
RD
Jhunjhunuwala Haveli:
It is famous for its gold leaf painted room on the right side of the main
courtyard. It is most beautiful & most visited attraction Family living in
the Haveli collects the charge (Rs. 100 / adult) as room visiting fee. The room
has a gold painting of Lord Krishna and Gopis all over the walls & ceiling.
Under the influence of artificial light the golden brightness of the room is a
treat to watch. One corner of the room is full of antiques like gramophone,
table, artefacts, earthen pots, etc. Walls of the rooms are embedded with the colourful
mirrors that enhance the beauty of the room.
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Outer Wall Of JhunJhunu Haveli
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| Ticket |
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Courtyard Of Jhunjhunu Haveli
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| Gold Leaf Painting Of Lord Krishna With Gopis |
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| Golden Painting On The walls |
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| Golden Frescoes On The Ceiling Of Jhunjhunwala Haveli |
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| Colourful Mirrors |
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| Frescoes On The Wall |
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| Golden Ceiling With Krishna |
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| Artefacts |
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| Antique Collection in Jhunjhunu Haveli |
Radhika
Haveli: Now it has
been converted to a hotel. Top of the entrance gate of Radhika Haveli have two
elephants facing each other with Sun in between. Frescoes on the exterior walls
of Haveli have shows British riding on the back of horses, Lord Shiva with Goddess
Parvati, Lord Ganesha, Rajputs, Birds, etc. Interior walls are full of Lord
Krishna stories. Interior Hall of Haveli has a beautiful Idol of Lord Krishna
standing on top of the tables placed on each other as per their size with
larger one at the bottom.
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| Entrance Gate Of Radhika Haveli Hotel |
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| Entrance Of Radhika Haveli Drawing Hall |
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| Rooms Of Radhika Haveli |
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| Krishna In The Center Of Drawing Hall |
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| Toy Bullock Cart |
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| Buddha |
Sneh
Ram Ladia Haveli: It
has been partially renovated and caretaker of this Haveli has put various
antiques in the hall so as to attract more tourists. They also sell the
antiques to tourists. Wall of the hall is full of painting of kings, British
Men & women. Haveli is two storied & has a internal courtyard with all
the walls & corners full of murals.
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| Entrance Of Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli |
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| Internal Courtyard And Rooms Of Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli |
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| Artefacts In Display at Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli |
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| Standing Cat |
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| On The Lanes Of Mandawa |
Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli: It is located in the
south of town. It was closed when we visited & we could not see it from
inside. Tharki Chokro song from movie
PK was shot in nt open space between Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli and front of Gulab
Rai Haveli. Seen where Amir Khan pulls the pant of Barber was shot in front of
the Haveli.
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| Front Of Gulab rai Ladia Haveli |
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| Gulab rai Ladia Haveli On The Right Of The Lane |
Laxminarayan Ladia Haveli: It is located near
to Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli. Murals on the exterior walls have been restored
recently.
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| Restored Murals Of Laxminarayan Ladia Haveli |
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| Unrestored Haveli Next To Laxminarayan Ladia Haveli |
Singhasan Haveli: It was formerly known as Goenka Haveli & now a
heritage hotel. It has exquisite painted frescoes on its walls, ceiling and
courtyard. It belonged to the Marwari merchant who was awarded the title “Raj
Bahadur”. Two of three storeys of rooms with jharokas, galleries and the
painted walls were built around the inner courtyard.
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| Singhasan Haveli |
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| The Other Half Of Singhasan Haveli |
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| Murals and Mirror Work Of Singhasan Haveli |
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| Internal Courtyad And Rooms Of Singhasan Haveli |
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| Antique Surahi in Singhasan Haveli |
So
after spending a beautiful 1.5 hr in Mandawa we started our journey for
Bikaner. There was much more to explore in the small town of Mandawa. To do a
full justice probably one whole day will do.